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Old 05-05-2004, 06:22 PM   #1
MotoPhoto
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Angry HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

I was backing my bike (KLR650, 2004) in at work and had the bars swung to the right. The emergency cut off switch (kill switch) got caught on one of the loops on my Wolfman tank bag. Did not notice it and when I straightened the bars, well I found seven red parts and think I am missing one of the springs
Does any one know of a temporary fix, if so drawings would be good?
Also will need a replacement, any after market that are better and or cheaper than stock.
Thanks for any advice
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Old 05-05-2004, 06:26 PM   #2
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To be honest ive never really looked iside the switch to close but i'd say find the wires that go to the switch (one each side obviously), cut them and then just twist them together. Im sure it aint as simple as that but i cant see it being much more complicated. Maybe a bit of trial and error but its only a quick fix and to be honest i never use my Kill switch anyway so cant see why it cant be a permanent one.
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Old 05-05-2004, 06:37 PM   #3
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Actually the kill switch grounds the ignition to stop the engine.

There is a Black and white striped wire going to the kill switch.
Disconnect is somehow.
If you just cut it , make sure you cover the ends with tape.
or you may find yourself looking for the cause of a misfire.
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Old 05-05-2004, 06:51 PM   #4
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looking at the wiring diagram in the Clymer manual, the kill switch has two sides. AKA: double pole single throw (switching it left or right makes and brakes the same cirucits)

the two brown wires and the black/yellow wire should be normaly connected.

the black/white wire should not be connected to anything.
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Old 05-05-2004, 06:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by fixer
looking at the wiring diagram in the Clymer manual, the kill switch has two sides. AKA: double pole single throw (switching it left or right makes and brakes the same cirucits)

the two brown wires and the black/yellow wire should be normaly connected.

the black/white wire should not be connected to anything.
Yeah, thats what i meant
(Bugger, must read my Clymer manual so i can say helpful things to )
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Old 05-05-2004, 07:25 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by fixer
looking at the wiring diagram in the Clymer manual, the kill switch has two sides. AKA: double pole single throw (switching it left or right makes and brakes the same cirucits)

the two brown wires and the black/yellow wire should be normaly connected.

the black/white wire should not be connected to anything.
Need to buy a Clymer manual, are they out for the 04's yet?

So do I need to cut the two brown wires and the black/yellow wire and connect them together?

Am I looking at buying a new one from the dealer or would aftermarket be better?
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Old 05-05-2004, 08:34 PM   #7
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no changes to the '04 except for color, the Clymer will work fine.

yes, if you cut the the black/yellow wire and both brown wires off at the switch and twist/solder them all togeher, then just cut the black/white wire and insulate... and tape it all up you should run fine... no kill switch, but there's always the ignition. a new switch will have new wires.

don't know about a generic kill switch, but the same switch is probably used on MANY Kawis... and perhaps somthing from another brand might fit... and could certantly be made to work.

the part you need is-
Part Number: 27045-1071
Description: SWITCH-ASSY,ENGINE ST
Price: $40.66

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts....ing=27045-1071

however Ron Ayers and FedEx Ground take about a month when i order parts... Fred at . (or your local dealer) may be able to get it faster... or try a bike salvage yard. that switch is the sam for ALL years of KLR.
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Old 05-07-2004, 09:10 AM   #8
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Moto_Photo,

I would take it to my dealer on bended knees and tell exactly what happened.

After reading the warranty, DUMB MOVES on part of the owner are kind of in the grey area.

But first, buy a Kawasaki tank bag and tell him that is what did the damage.
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Old 05-07-2004, 02:00 PM   #9
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Marty, I like your answer best.
Cheers /DD
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Old 05-07-2004, 11:35 PM   #10
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Picked up my new switch today, will install it in the morning.

Fixer thanks for the info. Also ordered a Clymer manual should be hear Monday.
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:56 PM   #11
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

99 klr 650 kill switch bypass wiring help please
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:14 AM   #12
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjconstruction View Post
99 klr 650 kill switch bypass wiring help please
I wouldn't recommend bypassing your kill switch unless it's broken and you need to ride in the meantime, but if you must, I think fixer explained it well: http://www.klr650.net/forums/showpos...70&postcount=7
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:23 PM   #13
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

Bit I did do it exactly like he explained and now it turns over but no fire to coil.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:57 PM   #14
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

I did just as he explained now it turns over but no power to coil.popped main fuse twice then stopped and returned to klr forums for more advice.
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fixer View Post
no changes to the '04 except for color, the Clymer will work fine.

yes, if you cut the the black/yellow wire and both brown wires off at the switch and twist/solder them all togeher, then just cut the black/white wire and insulate... and tape it all up you should run fine... no kill switch, but there's always the ignition. a new switch will have new wires.

don't know about a generic kill switch, but the same switch is probably used on MANY Kawis... and perhaps somthing from another brand might fit... and could certantly be made to work.

the part you need is-
Part Number: 27045-1071
Description: SWITCH-ASSY,ENGINE ST
Price: $40.66

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts....ing=27045-1071

however Ron Ayers and FedEx Ground take about a month when i order parts... Fred at . (or your local dealer) may be able to get it faster... or try a bike salvage yard. that switch is the sam for ALL years of KLR.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjconstruction View Post
I did just as he explained now it turns over but no power to coil.popped main fuse twice then stopped and returned to klr forums for more advice.
Ok, so I didn't check fixer's work before I gave his advice.

The two brown wires need to be connected to be able to start the bike. To turn off the bike, ground the black/white.

*CONNECTING THE BROWN AND BLACK/YELLOW IS SHORT TO GROUND* That's why you blew fuses. Sorry for your confusion.

Note to fixer: in the wiring diagram, the line between the two halves of the switch signifies that they are mechanically connected, not electrically connected.
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Why yes, I have pulled my doohickey lately. It's even caught on camera!
"Live and learn" should be rephrased to "Learn, if you live."
Everyday is a great day to ride.
Вce хорошо, что кончается хорошо.
'98 KLR 650, ever so affectionately named Leah - 27,000 smiles so far
Previous bikes:
'78 AT1 125, "sold" to my brother
Mixture of '87-'88 YZ 100/125
'?? Yamaha Virago 250
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:33 PM   #16
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

What could mess up if ya kept trying it? (Shorting to ground) I still can't get it to fire
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Old 09-02-2011, 06:22 AM   #17
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjconstruction View Post
What could mess up if ya kept trying it? (Shorting to ground) I still can't get it to fire
As long as you keep replacing the fuse with the same amp-rated ones (I'm guessing the 10A fuse is the one blowing?) nothing. The fuse should be committing suicide before anything else gets the chance to blow up.
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Why yes, I have pulled my doohickey lately. It's even caught on camera!
"Live and learn" should be rephrased to "Learn, if you live."
Everyday is a great day to ride.
Вce хорошо, что кончается хорошо.
'98 KLR 650, ever so affectionately named Leah - 27,000 smiles so far
Previous bikes:
'78 AT1 125, "sold" to my brother
Mixture of '87-'88 YZ 100/125
'?? Yamaha Virago 250
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:20 PM   #18
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

I did this too trying blindly with different wire combinations. Mine has b/w wire. It comes from the stator. Just cut it loose and insulate it good. The black/ yellow is ground. Also insulate it. Connect the orange wire after cutting it loose with the brown one. This connects it through the switch to yellow red. When you push the button it should crank and fire. Trouble is I heated too many wires and popped too many fuses up in the bush trying to avoid a long hike out through bear country. Now I think I damaged a coil or cdi or something. Anybody have any idea what's most likely. I have cranking but no spark.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:51 PM   #19
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

Thanks for the solution Steve. Your wiring solution was spot on.
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Old 04-14-2014, 11:41 AM   #20
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Default Re: HELP!! BROKEN KILL SWITCH!!

After reading a handful of different folks trying to solve this problem, I was still not very sure what was the best way of bypassing the kill switch. I found others explanations of how the switch worked, and different ways of doing something so simple confusing. So I thought I'd try to make this as simple as possible for those of us who just broke the red off-run-off kill switch.

I can only speak from what I have just done, so this info is from a 98.

To bypass your kill switch (mine broke off after a crash. starter button still intact)-

You will need: A large Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, wire cutter, scissors, and electrical tape.

Step 1. Remove the Start and Kill switch housing from the Mirror mount. Tilt the handlebars to the left for room. Use the Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the single screw between the Start button, and the Kill Switch. After the screw is removed, carefully lift and remove the housing from the Mirror mount.

Step 2. Using the wire cutters (or scissors, knife, etc.) disconnect the Orange wire (not in the Big Cee wire diagram), and the Brown wire. Do this as close to where it is soldered for the most length to work with.

Step 3. Strip the Orange, and Brown wires leaving about 1/4 to 1/2 and inch of exposed wire. Twist them individually Clockwise.

Step 4. Connect the Orange and Brown wires. Solder, or twist them Counter Clockwise. Insulate them with Electrical tape (or something similar)

Step 5. Test Start. Before putting it back together. Turn the key to the On position, and press the Start button. It should start up as usual, if not you'll need to continue to troubleshoot. If it does start, carefully put the Orange, and Brown wires back in the housing, and re attach to the mirror housing.

Hope that helps!

-Cap
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